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Thank you!

The main risk is the drill bit hitting and going through the pipe. A skilled technician will know to stop the drilling once the concrete has been passed, and the risk there is minimized.

​@@Therealsealllc Ok, thanks. Is polyjacking better than mudjacking in terms of risk to pipes? I have a hard time thinking about how the forces involved could affect a pipe which may or may not be exposed in part or full.

@@TimothyOBrien6 Both services have risk of filling pipes, as they are filling voids and any break in a pipe exposes a large space. Solid pipes have little chance of being damaged with either service.

@@Therealsealllc thank you

HAHA HAPPY TO HELP!!

Hi @elibrown7531! Epoxy injection is best done from the inside. With a finished basement, you can end up injecting epoxy into your home, which is not ideal. So while epoxy injection is the best solution from the interior, from the exterior the best solution is to clean the wall, use hydraulic cement over the crack, and then an elastomeric tar over that. A protective barrier like a plastic sheeting or a foam board is ideal as well to prevent the tar from being scraped off during back fill and compression of the dirt.

Those can be done as well. It all depends on the size of the structure that is being supported. The same spacing applies, unless the structure is 3 stories and taller, in which case the piers would need to be spaced closer to 3' apart.

Happy to help!

Hi Gonzo, thanks so much! The tar we use comes from a commercial supplier. There are numerous brands available in the big box stores. As long as it is a good product, the biggest thing to worry about is prepping the foundation properly. Be sure to dig to and clean off the footing. Scrape the whole area to get any dirt/dust/debris off the wall. Brush it clean. Then apply the hydraulic cement, seal with tar, and put the plastic sheeting over it. 10 mil can work, but you need to be careful because that thin of a membrane can tear with rocks and dirt as you tamp the dirt back into the hole. I'd recommend a bit thicker, at least 14 mil or a foam insulation board.

There are many ways to waterproof structures. We don't torch bitumen membranes, so wouldn't be the best people to ask about that process. Over our tar seal, we typically lay an thread-reinforced poly sheeting. We also will use insulation board. The main purpose is to protect the tar while backfilling.

The color of the tar matters little. What you need is an elastomeric (still a bit stretchy when dried) tar. Prepping the area properly is the most important step. So be sure to clean off the wall with a wire brush well and brush any dust/debris off and allow to dry before applying the tar.

Clearly you've never built a new house....

Hi There @Figs4Life! While I do not know your specific situation, as I have not seen it, I can offer some recommendations to help you make your decision. When it comes to waterproofing, insulation on the ceiling of your crawl space will not do very much. What it will do, though, is help keep the floors from being cold all the time. Cold crawl space air cools the 1st story floors, and the insulation will help prevent that. So if you have cold floors and want that fixed, ceiling insulation is the way to go. If not, don't worry about it. The windows can stay, but there isn't much use for them other than as an egress window. If they are too small to be egress windows, then you don't have much use for them in the crawl space. Extra windows means lower insulation value, which means higher utility bills. Is the house settling? Sloping floors in the home? The brick columns are an older construction method for homes, but if they're not moving, they don't need to be replaced. If they are moving, then it's time to consider replacement. As for the reviews of the company, be sure you read the reviews. Especially any complaints on the BBB and how they were handled by the company. That's the easiest way to see the customer service when things don't go perfectly. I hope this helps! Send me any more questions you may have!

@@Therealsealllc I appreciate your response, thank you. I have one more question Do I need a dehumidifier? One company said I don't need it the other company said I need it and a pump. The First company that said I don't need a dehumidifier nor a pump gave me an estimate of $21000 while the other company that said I need it including a pump gave me a quote of $17 500 How come the second company is cheaper ? Am I being ripped off? Micro space is about a 1000 square feet, They have to remove old insulation on the ceiling, level some areas in the crawl space, and take out some debris. The crow space height ranges from 3-5 feet

@@Therealsealllc Where are you guys located? Do you guys do jobs in Long Island New York?

@@Figs4Life Different companies surely charge different amounts. You do get different levels of service, warranties, etc. But there are most certainly times (especially in the busy season) that you will see some companies drastically raise prices to see what they can get. Best way to choose the right company is to compare (and read) the reviews across Yelp, BBB (especially to how they respond to the complaints), and Angies. Google reviews are too easy to fake, so I would not use those as a deciding factor. A dehumidifier is always a good idea, but not always necessary. Thinking of the long term health of the area, it would be best to get a dehumidifier. But again, I haven't seen your specific situation, so that is just general good advice. Does that all make sense?

@@Figs4Life I wish! We are in Chicagoland.

It includes the floors, as you want to create a protective barrier between the dirt/gravel floor and the rest of the space.

Hello! Unfortunately we cannot, but there are companies that do sell DIY kits so you can try it yourself. Some big box stores even carry some.

Hi John! Concrete lag anchors will work to secure your window well to the masonry wall. Just be sure to drill your holes in the mortar joints, as those blocks are hollow and won't hold the bolt. The Sika Flex you can use to seal between the well and the wall. Metal or hardware supply stores can get you a piece of metal for the cover.

Yes, but it depends on the tombstone. If it is a small traditional one, manually reinstalling the tombstone may be the best option. If the tombstone is larger, Polyjacking could help even it out and stabilize it.

Those are difficult, and usually requiring piering or deep soil injection to help stabilize.

Thank so much @lakenbanks9426!

You would need to get a sump pit installed. Alternatively, you could do it all outside and run it to a low spot in the yard. The problem with this is that the well depth is already so low, and with pitch of the pipe, you'll be digging a very deep trench.

Yes, it is definitely worth it and you should get a full perimeter system. With cinder block, it's only a matter of time before it leaks in other areas as well. A reputable company should install an Interior Drain Tile System with a Lifetime Warranty as well, alleviating any future concerns.

@@Therealsealllc Thanks for the quick response!! Would it be okay to do half now and half later? Also will it reduce pressure under the basement floor. I worry it will weaken my walls and have radon

@@keithschneider4483 You can do half now and half later, just be sure you pitch the Drain Tile correctly remember it won't stop water from coming through cracks in the floor until it's the full perimeter system.

You're very welcome!

Depending on your situation, that may be the best route. We pride ourselves on being transparent and up front about all costs and options so the homeowner can make an informed decision, without someone holding a pen in front of their nose.

Hahaha we do describe it that way!

Hi @spoken pearls! It can be complicated, but we make it easy! If you're interested in getting your retaining wall fixed, let us know!

Hi @taniat3412 did you find anyone?

Hi @taniat3412! So at 3" you are still able to support the wall with Carbon Fiber. However, if it is not addressed immediately and gets beyond 3", you will need to push the wall back. I recommend getting a qualified contractor out there asap to address the issue. We unfortunately do not have any recommendations in the STL area. I would recommend you going to Yelp, Angie's, BBB, and Google, read the reviews, and choose the most consistently reputable and responsive company.

@@Therealsealllc Thank you. I got a quote for a company that wants to install 7 steel piers on the back and left side. total cost 12,500 does that seem reasonable? the length of that section to be repaired is 12' of wall 8' high.

@@taniat3412 That seems like a lot of piers for a 12' section. But you may need to stabilize further than the 3" side that is tipping outward. As far as the price, that's a good price for steel piers. Be sure you get at least 2 other quotes so you have a good idea of the exact fix you need and get a decent company.

@@Therealsealllc Thank you and I did get a guy to come out, it isn't even my basement wall, my sill is completely rotted and all the wood behind my siding is pushing my siding outward making it look like my wall did it. After I fix all this mess I am still going to monitor my wall with measuring just to be sure. Thank you again

Hi @darrianlittle2272! We highly recommend against you tightening the plates yourself. Some companies make plans for customers to tighten their own plates and pull the wall back themselves, but it does not work. Most of the time, the customer overtightens the bolts, breaking the wall or damaging the supports. To properly push back a foundation wall, you must dig a trench outside next to the wall to relieve the pressure and allow space for the wall to move. Otherwise, you're trying to pull the wall against compressed dirt, which is not going to move.

We used lifting cylinders off of Helical Piers to lift the foundation at the same time. ruclips.net/video/RaCdqSzKiyQ/видео.htmlsi=6XPjSfc1tfJR6yY1

It is possible to use epoxy for that, but a concrete sealer for that use is going to be a better solution.

Hi @kristinak2211 great questions! There are some areas in the country that have silty soils that allow water to pass right through them. We have an area around us in Evanston, IL that has such silty soil in places that sump pumps never go off, even in the heaviest of rains. The good news is that you are in such a place that you don't need to worry as much about flooding in your basement. The bad news is that one day it still may flood the basement, so I always advise to be careful what you put down there if you don't have a Drain Tile. That said, I would definitely recommend replacing your sump pump. When the time comes for it to be used, you want it fresh and reliable.

Hello! If water is leaking under the footing, you will need a Drain Tile System in order to solve that. Check it out here! ruclips.net/video/1fqMyR859vY/видео.htmlsi=8Uti6ngJ0LRCN5h-

Hello! You are correct, epoxies do not stick to a wet wall. In the case of a leaking crack, we will build a Hydraulic Cement Surface Patch with diverting tubes that moves the water and creates a dry surface for our epoxy to bond to. From there, we can inject the crack and stop the leak!

Thank you!

Hello! So there shouldn't be any draft, and I do not suggest a P-Trap. The pipe should have been sealed around it where it went through the hole to prevent any draft. Also, if it drops into the sump pit, an air-tight lid will stop any cold air from affecting your basement. If it drops into the Drain Tile, you should be able to seal around it where it enters the concrete as well.

Hahaha thank you!

Oh yeah, was an old video and learned my lesson there. Nowadays we prevent that by drilling from the outside and inside and meeting in the middle. For that, I ended up patching with hydraulic cement.

@@Therealsealllc I love an honest answer. Many people would cover comment that reply. Good for you! That is what I thought would have been the cause. I am closing in on doing my crawl space as after 36 years in a hard rain we draw water. Doing home work now. Too old to do it myself but need to know the facts. Sure I have avoided a huge mistake by watching videos like yours. Not sure how to attach dimple board when doing a crawl.Shame you are not in my Va. area.🦇

@@dustbat We're big fans of growing, and that means learning from our mistakes. For the dimple board attachment, you can secure to the wall via pins into the concrete, or just leave it with the concrete over it like in our videos. If you encapsulate the crawl space, you don't need to secure it at all, as the encapsulation will be covering it up. Best way to find a good company around you is to go to review sites like Yelp, Angie's, BBB and read and compare the reviews to find the company that suits you best. Always feel free to reach out with any questions!

@@Therealsealllc I think I am getting there. Thanks for all this help. One more thing. Crawl space. No concrete. Now I would have a trench below the footer for drain pipes. Also I am way below our dirt floor level. So if I stopped here you would have a trench open where you could step off. So, do I have the whole thing filled in with rock.? I am sure we do not put dirt back.🦇

@@dustbat first thing is to not go beneath the footer. If your dirt level is that low already, I suggest putting gravel in there to get over the footer level. Then you can install your Drain Tile at footer level, with a 1/8" per foot slope, and then encapsulate the crawl space.

Most all cracks are through the entire foundation wall top to the bottom of the footing. While injecting cracks or sealing them from the outside will waterproof them, if a crack is actively getting bigger, it means there is an underlying structural issue. If the wall is moving inwards, it will require Carbon Fiber or Wall Plates to repair. if the wall is settling downward, it will require Push or Helical Piers to stop that movement. You can reinforce cracks with carbon fiber stitching, but that will not hold the entire wall. Check out our Carbon Fiber, Wall Pushback, and Piering Videos for more info!

Yes, you can still use epoxy in those situations. If the crack is actively leaking, it may be best to switch to polyurethane until you get past the leak, as it does react with water. If it is leaking too bad, it is best to come back another day to complete the repair.

Hello! If you are able to get the crack from the inside, there is no need for repair on the outside. However, if there are finishings/chimneys/furnaces/etc in the way of the crack that prevents you from doing a proper interior repair, we would then recommend an exterior solution.

Happy to help!

Hi Roy! No, it is not normal. A finished system should have concrete over it from the interior. Unless you are in a crawl space where there is no concrete floor at all. In that case, we would recommend you encapsulate the crawl space.

Thank you for the reply. What I am wondering is, what is the point of these rock channels? They added it when they installed the French drain, which is working normally via the larger, corrugated pipes., which are covered over w concrete. Should I cover these rocks w concrete? Thank you again@@Therealsealllc

​@@Roy-xe9is Do you have a picture you can send so I can see exactly what you are talking about? You can send them to Office@TheRealSeal.com and put Attention Austin via RUclips and they will pass it my way.

@@Therealsealllc Thank you Austin. Yes, I will send this evening. Much appreciated.

@@Roy-xe9is Happy to help, thank you!

Hi Stephanie! Sounds like you an evaluation to see where the water is coming in. If it's seeping where the wall meets the floor, it means the Drain Tile you had installed was not installed correctly. If you got it done by a reputable company, it should have come with a warranty. Call that company and have them come out and fix it. If you had a handyman do it, call a reputable waterproofing company and have them come re-do it correctly.

@@Therealsealllc thank you

@@StephanieGagos happy to help! Sorry you're having the issue.

Glad to hear you don't have any issues!

Hi Robert! They were just placing the Drain Tile down to line it up, and then switched the holes to the bottom. The sock is put on there, with every system installed, not to "hide" the holes but to help filter out debris and particulates that would clog the system. It is standard on every Drain Tile, except those with an Iron Ochre infection.

hahahahahahaha

The Drain Tiles are protected not only by the bed of gravel, but a filter sock. It is a very rare occasion that a Drain Tile clogs up when installed properly. The one situation that can happen is when there is extremely sandy soil. In that case, we would not install the sock and let the sand through to prevent the system from clogging. But to answer your question, same thing as when your brakes go out, or your fridge breaks, or your car gets totaled. You replace it. Luckily, if it's under warranty with a reputable company, this doesn't cost you a thing, unlike your brakes, fridge, and car. So all smiles!

thanks for replying but I'm being told that my problem is that I have an orange type of bacterial growth on the outside of the pipe not allowing the water to go into the pipe but instead come up through basement floor.

@@waynebaker4624 oh no that's Iron Ochre Bacteria. What you are dealing with is a bacteria in the ground that grows and hardens, clogging Drain Tiles and wrecking Sump Pumps alike. There are things you can do with your system (no sock on Drain Tile, 1" gravel, Iron Ochre Catching Basin, and using bleach tablets to help keep the bacteria clear), but with Iron Ochre, you'll be replacing the Drain Tile System likely every 5 years. You may be able to stretch it to 10 if you take great care, but unfortunately Iron Ocher is like the cancer in your Drain Tile System.

Hi there! All of our I-Beam Supports are made right here in the USA in Tennessee. They unfortunately only sell to select contractors.

Thank you so much!

We use a contractor-grade epoxy only available to contractors. If you are looking to DIY, you can find some kits at the big box stores, but I wouldn't recommend it. For your foundation, best to go with a reputable company experienced in these repairs that will also provide you with a warranty.

Hi @szargos! That means that your Drain Tile either does not exist or is not functioning. Just because you have a sump pump doesn't mean you have a Drain Tile. And if your Drain Tile is original to the house, at some point, it will need to be replaced. All original Drain Tiles do, as they are usually clay, without sock, without pitch, and without gravel.

@@Therealsealllc Ok, makes sense. Thanks for the reply!

Happy to help!@@szargos

Hi Joe! Push and Helical Piers can be simplified to "Heavy Weight Structure" and "Light Weight Structure" Piers. Push Piers use the weight of the home to drive into the ground. So if the weight of the home is not heavy enough, you'll simply push the structure out of the ground instead of the pier into the ground. Single story houses can use Push Piers, it just depends on their makeup. With a 4 foot poured concrete foundation and brick siding, Push Piers can be used. If the home is on a slab and wood siding, or you're supporting an addition or chimney, it's likely Helical Piers are the way to go. Both accomplish the same thing. Both have different sizes to accommodate heavier and lighter loads. A reputable contractor in your area should be able to recommend the best pier for your situation. Just beware of anyone who says one or the other doesn't work. They both work, it's basic physics.